South of Ngapali is the fishing village of Maung Shwe Lay. Here is Lalay Lodge, situated amongst small outcrops and palm trees upon a placid bay. Sustainability is at the heart of Lalay Lodge: the staff are from the village, the cuisine is that of Rakhine State, and your impact on the environment is kept low due to solar energy, the re-use of grey water, and lack of single-use plastic. 

The rooms at Lalay Lodge are large and immaculately designed. You are at the heart of the community and from the central pavilion can watch the fishermen paddle and the young navy cadets jog by in the morning.  

When Sampan first visited we would hike up the hill overlooking the bay and sit by the stupa for sunset. One of the hotel’s three dogs – Bro, Blaize and Wonky – would usually accompany us. Far from the lights of Ngapali – here is the tranquility of the Bay of Bengal.    

FLASH POINT: Wake up early and take the dawn bus to the nearby town. Enjoy the morning mists as you rattle through dells and clearnings. Upon disembarking enjoy a hearty breakfast and then cycle back to the beach.