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The Nagas are a collection of tribes of mixed origin and varying but similar cultures. The numerous Naga languages belong to the Tibeto-Burman group of the Sino-Tibetan language family.
The culture of Nagaland is based upon tribes and clans. Naga tribes are made up of clans which are similar to extended families. At the centre of each clan is the “thehu” or “kichuki”. This is a simple boarding house where adolescent boys live during their formative years, so to prepare them for life and so to play their roles in society as adult men and heads of their own family. Here the boys learn politics, diplomacy and the various ways of conducting oneself towards others, ready to compete with anyone in any field.
Author Charles Chasie writes that in the thehu, “They would give due regard to everyone, choose not to be the first to give offence lest it ended in bringing shame and loss of face to family and clan.”
Nagaland’s history is as rugged as its terrain. From the migration of its tribes to its role in major global conflicts, the state’s legacy is one of resilience and spirit. The Nagas are best known for their history of headhunting. This was largely – but not completely – put to a stop by the British, who turned up in the early 1900s and brough the Naga Hills loosely into the Imperial bosom.
After the initial bloody clashes, the British were largely tolerated by the Nagas and good relations were sustained enough so that the Allies could rely heavily on the Nagas during the Second World War, when the Japanese Army came over the border from Burma, and Kohima became a hellscape reminiscent of the First World War.
The history of Nagaland and Kohima is dominated by the Second World War. In the 1940s, the District Commissioner of Nagaland was Charles Pawsey. It was due to affection for Pawsey that the Kohima Nagas fought so well for the Allies. When Allied troops were withdrawn just before the Battle of Kohima for tactical reasons, an outraged Pawsey proclaimed: “If you want to leave, go, but I will not abandon my Nagas!” This kind of language the Nagas understood. The site of Pawsey’s bungalow and tennis court in Kohima now sits within the Kohima War Cemetery.
With the arrival of British, came American missionaries. While no-one in Nagaland today looks upon the British history in Nagaland as a good thing in itself, they are grateful for it bringing them into contact with Christianity. The Americans had great success in Nagaland, and today most of the state is fervently Christian.
In his book, The Immense Cost of the Naga Struggle, P.E. Ezung writes with great ardour:
“The American Baptist missionaries introduced education into our culture for the first time as they began to educate the Nagas. Our praise, admiration, and gratitude to the American Baptist missionaries is deeply rooted in our hearts as it is now part of our Christian heritage. God bless America for her generous gifts to the rest of the world …”
Today, any visitor to the town of Khonoma will be swiftly – and with more than a little pride – shown where early British imperialists were once speared. But there is no grudge, and international travellers to Nagaland – including Brits – will be welcomed by the traditional Naga hospitality.
No journey to Nagaland is complete without savouring its traditional cuisine. The bold flavours of fermented bamboo shoot, the smoky allure of axone, and the fiery kick of the King Chilli make every meal an experience.
The land’s natural beauty is as compelling as its cultural wealth. Evergreen forests, mist-laden hills, and valleys carpeted in wildflowers form a stunning backdrop for adventure seekers. For wildlife enthusiasts, Nagaland is a haven, home to rare species like the Amur Falcon and clouded leopard.
Naga folklore and legends, as well as Naga mythology, tell that the Nagas first came from a place somewhere to the north in present-day China. They initially migrated to a village called “Makhrai-Rabu” where they dispersed to the various places that they are living now.
The first written record of the Nagas dates back to the Ahom Kingdom (1228–1826) of modern-day Assam. It is believed that it was the Ahom who gave the Nagas their name, distinguishing them as mountain folk, quite separate to the valley-dwelling Assamese. P.E. Ezung writes:
“The Naga people and culture were unknown to the outside world. The people lived a life that was very simple but rich in culture and tradition. Before the British invaded the Naga Hills, the only life the Nagas knew was living off the land in simplicity.”
In the 1900s the British sent expeditionary forces into the Naga Hills and after a series of brutal battles took control. Relations between the Nagas and the British were to improve. Naga men were enlisted during the First World War and their – if not prompt – payment down to the last rupee instilled trust. By the time of WWII in Nagaland, the Allies were able to lean heavily on the Nagas as allies. Brits permanently residing in Nagaland up until WWII, such as Charles Pawsey and Ursula Graham Bower, built particularly strong relationships with the Nagas which are fondly remembered today.
When in 1947 the British left Nagaland within India – a nation they never wanted to be part of – the Nagas were greatly disappointed. Charles Chasie writes:
“The British Government left the Nagas under the new Indian Government without saying a single word about Naga sentiments of wanting to be left outside India. Across the board, regardless of village or tribal affinity, the Naga people felt let down by their British friends when they departed from India in 1947.”
A brutal war between the Naga insurgents and the Indian Army began almost as soon as the British left. This conflict was particularly bloody, with the Nagas accusing the Indian Army of habitual war crimes, even against women and children. The insurgency began to settle after Nagaland State was carved out of the state of Assam in the early 1960s.
Today, the insurgency has almost completely subsided. There are a couple of points over which Delhi and Kohima are not reconciled (principally the right for Nagaland to have their own state flag), but both sides seem content to let this matter rest in the long grass.
The state bird of Nagaland is the hornbill. Ironic, as the Nagas have hunted the hornbill to extinctions in Nagaland. The joke used to be that, in Nagaland, “if it moves and breathes, it can be eaten”. Although there are some dishes in modern-day Nagaland that will make even the most curious travellers squirm – wasp larvae can be sampled in the villages, and you may see a pot of dogs’ paw in the Kohima markets – the Nagas have now heavily restricted hunting, and foodies can comfortably enjoy the local food in Nagaland.
At the heart of Naga cuisine is an unyielding reverence for local ingredients. The rugged terrain and subtropical climate provide an abundance of fresh produce, herbs and spices, many of which are foraged rather than farmed. The result is a cuisine that is simple yet robust, relying on minimal processing.
The cornerstone of the cuisine of Nagaland is rice. Meat is particularly prized in Nagaland, with pork being the most popular. Smoked pork, slow cooked with bamboo shoot and fermented soybean (axone), is perhaps the most iconic dish of the state. The smoking process, often done over wood fires, imbues the meat with a deep, earthy flavour.
Another distinctive feature of the food of Nagaland are the Naga fermented foods. Ingredients like axone and anishi (fermented taro leaves) are staples that add complexity and umami to many dishes. A light use of both axone and anishi will be delightful for most adventurous travellers.
For chilli-heads, Nagaland offers the fiery Raja Mircha, also known as the King Chili, to be found in the heart of Naga spicy dishes. It is one of the hottest chillis in the world. Bold travellers may wish to sample this as the Nagas do – raw, and cautiously nibbled after dipping in salt. The King Chilli is also found prodigiously in Naga chutneys and pickles.
Those travelling to Nagaland can embark on treks embracing the broad landscape of Nagaland; cultural exploration throughout the state (but particularly rich in the Naga tribal villages of Mon District); and deep dives into the history in state capital Kohima. With much fanfare, the Nagaland Hornbill festival takes place each year in December, just outside of Kohima. The textiles of Nagaland are superb. Most of the sophisticated workshops and boutiques are located in Dimapur.
Dzüko Valley is one of the most popular places for trekking in Nagaland. Not far from Kohima, this can be conducted over one day. However, we find the crowds here are off-putting. For the best trekking in Nagaland, go off-beat and try Sampan’s Nagaland on Foot trekking route between Dimapur and Kohima through Nagaland’s unexplored places. If you are up for a real challenge, try our 39 Hours to Kohima endurance trek between Jessami and Kohima.
The Konyak Naga tribe inhabit Mon District – one of the most popular places to visit in Nagaland . The Konyaks stand out among other Naga tribes for their unique cultural markers, including elaborate facial tattoos, which were traditionally earned as a rite of passage following successful headhunting expeditions. The Konyaks were the last Naga tribe to stop headhunting. Here you can see traditional Naga tattoos and attire – perfect for photographers! See the Konyak Tea Retreat for more.
At Nagaland’s Hornbill Festival, the Konyak, along with the 16 other major tribes, showcase their traditions, culture, costumes and cuisine. Launched in the year 2000, the festival is a vibrant celebration of food, dance and music. It also doesn’t take itself too seriously. Amongst the rich cultural heritage, expect performances by local rock bands and King Chilli eating competitions!
The best way how to reach Nagaland is by flying into Dimapur. There are regular flights from Kolkata (West Bengal) and Guwahati (Assam). Trains from the rest of India, often via Dibrugarh (Assam), terminate in Dimapur. In theory it is possible to drive into Kohima from Manipur to the south, but this road is often disrupted. The best time to visit Nagaland is between November and April.
Rob Lyman explores the events and ramifications of WW2 in Kolkata, Kohima and the Naga Hills.
Trek from the plains of Dimapur up to Kohima in the hills. Stay overnight in Naga villages.
An endurance trek through the Naga Hills, in the footsteps of the Naga soldiers of the Assam.
