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Bengal has a rich textile heritage. Created by master artisans of ancient techniques, Bengal’s brightly patterned, intricate fabrics have a story to tell. These are tales of zamindars, Mughal emperors and wealthy European merchants. But also, quiet tales of spinners and weavers and small-time traders, for whom these textiles mean much more than just a fabric to be worn. These textiles are a window into the history of this region. As Darshan Shah says of baluchari silk, “The motifs of the saris weave a fascinating tale of tradition and change while documenting events of a bygone era.” Â
The artistry of Bengal is seeing a revival. For the sake of the heritage, but also for income generation. Therefore, these tales being spun are as much a tract for the future as they are a recollection of the past. Sampan’s Braided Tales artisan and textiles tour of India intends to tell this story with clarity and integrity.Â
This is the best craft and textiles tour in India. Our journey begins in Kolkata. Here we will introduce ourselves to the crafts of this region. We shall travel up to Santiniketan and meet the dynamic and creative artisans who are sustaining and innovating these textiles. Â
We travel on to Murshidabad, former capital of Nawabi Bengal, and then turn south, travelling beside the Hooghly River, to see the world’s pre-eminent muslin workshop and stay at the estate of a historic Indigo plantation. Â
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Sampan’s India fabrics and textiles tour looks at a range of textiles but focuses specifically on three: jamdani muslin, baluchari silk, and kantha cotton.
The Sufi poet Abul Hasan Yamin ud-Din Khusrow wrote of muslin: “The fineness of the cloths is difficult to describe. A hundred yards of it can pass through the eye of a needle.” The Romans referred to muslin as “textile venti” or “woven winds”. Under Mughal rule, muslin was sent as tribute to Delhi. It was so fine, that once the Emperor Aurangzeb, aghast, raged at his daughter for appearing in public undressed, to which she retorted that she was wearing seven layers of Dhaka muslin.Â
Jamdani muslin is a fine, handwoven fabric renowned for its intricate patterns. Made from the finest cotton threads, jamdani is known for its floral and geometric motifs, which are meticulously woven into the fabric on a loom. After independence, muslin manufacturing in India was lost under the tide and preference given to khadi – the course cotton made famous by Gandhi’s “swadeshi” movement.Â
Baluchari silk is a distinguished handwoven fabric from Bengal. Baluchari silks have elaborate framed borders consisting of images depicting the sophisticated life of rulers, zamindars, affluent bankers and wealthy European traders. The images do not represent a narrative but instead mirror a particular activity which is repeated across the border. These figural representations act as a window to understanding various socio-cultural aspects and developments of society. The weaving process is complex, involving meticulous design creation and vibrant, contrasting colours. Traditionally crafted on a drawloom, baluchari silk showcases Bengal’s rich cultural heritage and artistic finesse.Â
Kantha is an ancient tradition of crafting patchwork cloth from rags. The term “kantha” refers to both the running stitch and the finished textile. It is a craft embraced by Bengali women of all rural backgrounds: from the wives of wealthy landlords to those of farmers.
Shamlu Dudeja of Malika’s Kantha Collection says:
“The Buddha and his men never wore new fabrics. They got old fabrics from various homes and they sewed them together. The village women also used the same running stitch. Three layers of fabric and two layers of air trapped between them, made a warm quilt. So, the men and the babies of their homes found these quilts very comfortable in the mild winters of Bengal. For baby skin, layers of soft, old, cuddly cottons are more comfortable than new cottons.”
For centuries, the art of kantha has been passed down from mother to daughter. See House of Wandering Silk for more information and deep dives into India textiles. Â
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Any thorough textile heritage tour of India, must also dive into the political and economic history of the region. The rise and fall of the power and wealth of the Nawabs of Bengal, is tightly linked with the story of Bengali fabrics.
The first Nawab of Bengal was Murshid Quli Khan. In 1704 he moved the Bengal capital from Dacca to Murshidabad. Dacca remained the centre of muslin production. In Murshidabad, silk was spun and it became a prosperous trading hub, financed by the powerful Jagat Seth banking family. This hub of commerce attracted British traders. Â
Siraj-ud-Daulah was the last independent Nawab. He clashed with Clive of the East India Company at the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Clive was victorious. Siraj-ud-Daulah was arrested by his former officers and killed. Â
The intention of Clive and his associates at the EIC had been to revive British trade on advantageous terms and secure the support of a more amicable Nawab. In reality, their actions led to the erosion of the Nawabs’ authority, plunging what was previously the most tranquil and lucrative region of the Mughal Empire into anarchy.Â
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Trek through the foothills of the Sikkim Himalayas along the Goecha La Trail.
The Cold War, a fight for freedom and the birth of Bangladesh.
